Fire and Ice: Classic Nordic Cooking by Darra Goldstein

Author:Darra Goldstein [Goldstein, Darra]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
ISBN: 9781607746102
Publisher: Potter/TenSpeed/Harmony
Published: 2015-10-12T21:00:00+00:00

Savustettua lohta

SMOKED ARCTIC CHAR

I FEEL VERY fortunate to have met Jarmo Pitkänen, who opened Studio Restaurant Tundra in the mountains of Finnish Lapland ten years ago. The isolated town of Kuusamo may seem like an unusual place to site a fine restaurant, but after many years of cooking abroad, Jarmo wanted to return to the North, where he grew up, to raise his five daughters in the mountains’ wild beauty. He constructed a two-story building with a small but ideal restaurant kitchen and elegant private-dining space on the top floor. His pottery studio, where he fashions the restaurant’s stylish tableware, is located below. Jarmo cooks in the New Nordic style, making use of the North’s surprising abundance and tweaking traditional recipes to suit modern taste.

When my husband and I visited, Jarmo invited us into the kitchen to help prepare our meal, sharing his deep knowledge of the region’s flavors. And what a feast we had! We began with a salad of reindeer tongue seasoned with vinegar, grated horseradish, garlic, and local canola oil. Next came a Finnish classic, salmon soup, followed by fresh pike fillets lightly coated with rye meal and fried quickly in butter. We put the remaining pike through a meat grinder and served it over boiled potatoes, with fresh peas, trout roe, and tiny greens from his garden. We then seared a fillet of black grouse that Jarmo had hunted himself; he served it rare with a sauce of wild mushrooms and shallots. We finished up with perch, freshly caught from the nearby lake, which we smoked briefly on the stovetop over alder chips, adding a few drops of tervakusi (“tar pee,” Jarmo’s playful name for tar extract) to enhance the smoky flavor.

Jarmo swears by his stovetop smoker (see Sources), since it allows him to enjoy a taste of the outdoors even in the depths of winter, and now we’re hooked by this cooking method too. It’s a carefree way to achieve moist, flavorful fish—even without tar pee.

SERVES 2 OR 3, OR MORE AS AN APPETIƵER

1 teaspoon peppercorns, cracked

2 tablespoons juniper berries, crushed

3 cups water

2 tablespoons salt

2 tablespoons sugar

1 arctic char fillet with skin on, about 1 pound

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